I seen this look where kitchen countertops have a simple square edge finish and don't have any overhang, resulting in them being flush with the cabinet doors/drawers. I would like to understand how this is achieved before I have this conversation with my countertop installers, and try to explain to him how I want it done.

On Ikea cabinets - Quartz 2cm thick top

Here is the questions:
1) Should they adhere the quartz countertop straight onto the ikea cabinet boxes or do they need to have a plywood layer in-between like with Granite?

2) If they do have to put a plywood layer - how do you hide that wood when your not doing a overhang or a lip?

3) Would you suggest finishing the countertops at the exact distance that the drawer fronts are at - or should it extend just a tinny bit past?

4) On our island we would like to have a 15" to 12" bar overhang. Our island is 66" long. I was thinking that I would have to extend the box sides to provide support for the overhang. Do you have any other suggestion on how this should be done.

Thanks for everyones input.
::Chris

I have precast concrete countertops, but I suppose it is similar in principle with quartz.  The concrete slab was monolithic and did not contain any recesses or overhangs.

1.  The concrete countertops went right on top of the box frames.  Where additional support was needed, e.g., a cooktop opening, a 2x4 was installed inside of the cabinet, which was not visible from the outside.

2.  n/a

3.  My countertop edge is flush with the cabinets.  But then again, I have frameless cabinets, so the countertop actually overhangs the frame, but is flush with the drawerfronts.  So far it's all good.  However, I'm not sure if this would be a good idea if you have exposed frames...

4.  I have a 109" peninsula with an overhang.  Originally it was supposed to be a full 12" overhang, but due to some unexpected venting issues, the overhang ended up being 8", which is still plenty of room to fit your legs under (assuming you are not Shaquille O'Neal).  My concrete counter guy said that even an unsupported 12" overhang would be fine as long as I didn't plan on walking on it regularly.  More than 12" may be pushing it however... 

Chris,

 

1. this depends on a few things.  if you want a reveal between the door/drawer fronts and the counter, you can run a 1/4" piece of plywood between the counter top and the box.

 

2. you might be in trouble with this one.  you'll end up seeing the edge of the plywood.  one solution might be to paint the edge of the plywood black.  another might be to adhere veneer to it to match the veneer on your boxes

 

3. the cleaner look is flush with the drawer face, the more functional solution, so you can put your hand under the counter and slide items off the counter is 1/4" - 1/2" - it's all personal preference.

 

4. yes.  turn the counter surface down towards the floor (90 degree to the counter).  a little more expensive, but you don't see the end of the cabinet this way.

 

the photo attached is 1/4" staron (non brand corian) solid surface with 1/2" ply under.  the edge is 3/4" staron, which makes the surface look like 3/4" solid surface.  the edge of the island is turned down to hide the end of the cabinet.  the reveal between the counter surface and the drawer face is 1/2" wenge veneer, which wraps the entire front face of the cabinet box.

 

you can do the same thing with a concrete / stone / natural surface edge, but you'd have to increase the thickness to 1 1/2" minimum.

 

cheers,

 

darin