Modern Doors and Trim Ideas?
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I am looking for ideas for affordable interior doors and trim. the 6 square raised panel doors and colonial molding are cheap enough but not very modern. I thought about no baseboards (following a few threads here and there on cork and the like) but I think I want something down there.
My initial thoughts:
1. Luan hollow core doors - Painted white or some other color or stained.
Some options for treatment would be to get copper sheeting and veneer it. But how to hide the seams? Maybe Copper paint the whole thing? Also going prehung you have to remove/replace the awful molding.
2. 1X4 stock lumber for base and door molding. Squared edge would look modern, but a dust magnet especially white. The stock HD or Lowes has other than this is that tapered stuff with the rounded edge :disgust: or something frilly.
Would like some suggestions for luan door treatment or alternative and molding ideas.
I have a great idea suggested by my architect..but too late in the game for me to implement. That is eliminating the casing all together and holding the door jamb proud of the drywall the thickness of your baseboards. This give you essentially a really sleek 1/2 casement (or whatever the thickness of your jamb may be.
This requires that you:
1. frame a very square and tight-fit rough opening. Since you will not have a std. casing to capture the jamb, you must get a very rigid mount to the trimmer studs. Thus, you dont want to excessively shim the door install like you regularly would with a 2 oversized RO.
2. Install the jambs prior to drywall going up. That way, the drywallers can just finish the sheet rock right to the jamb.
I chose stamped MDF doors to get a modern look. The MDF gives you the advantage of a nice, heavy, solid door without the expense of buying a real solid wood door. Also, they stamp their doors, and have some really simple and clean trim. I chose a 3-panel design with 3 square panels of about 2' square to match the vocabulary of 2' windows I have scattered about.
mj - your trim scheme sounds beautiful, but I would worry that the joint between your gwb and the backside of your jamb will be prone to opening up. Well, that's what latex caulk is for..
I grew up in a 1960s era house that had hollow metal (steel) door frames. They had a formed profile to them and were a bit smaller than the ubiquitous 2 commercial variety you see everywhere. They would probably cost a fortune today.
For doors, I like masonite faced doors in the natural dark brown color. They would have to be ordered, but I'm sure they would be inexpensive.
Get your doors with a filled core if you can. Hollow doors feel like feathers.
A couple of years ago I did exactly the detail you are suggesting, MJ, but in an office setting. Greg is correct, we did have some opening of the joints at the backside of the jamb. Other issues were stress cracks showing up in the drywall at the upper corners, but only when there was a seem at that location and especially where we used heavier, solid core doors. We used flush doors everywhere, hollow luan mostly except a few where we wanted a more solid feel. In terms of installation, the biggest problem were the joints in the prehung jambs - most had to be filled and sanded. We used 2x3 studs rather than 2x4, so that the jambs would stand proud. This may have caused more movement. The baseboards were the masonite that is sometimes used as clapboard siding so they were thin (not as big a dustcatcher) and tall (8 or 10 inches). They did tend to travel a bit with waves in the wall and were a pain to mitre at outside corners. All in all a clean, elegant look on the cheap.
Another way to detail out the door jambs is to buy them undersized and kerf to jamb to receive an l-channel (is this the correct term?) that you can butt and finish your sheetrock too. I have seen this detail with and without baseboards...if you're going to use baseboards you'll have to resolve how this detail interacts with the baseboard where it meets the jamb.
John
You could also incorporate an 1/8th inch reveal between the jamb and the sheetrock. Use j-bead around the rock and 1/8th masonite between the jamb and the rock. Set the masonite in from the rock a 1/4 or so.
But you need a good carpenter to do this!
look at fry reglet http://www.fryreglet.com
they do a nice base trim, wall/ceiling trim and a z trim for around your doors.
Previously Patrick Anderson wrote:
look at fry reglet http://www.fryreglet.com
they do a nice base trim, wall/ceiling trim and a z trim for around your doors.
I'm interested in the fryreglet reveals in a remodel for the trimless look, however I'm having difficulty finding a distributer that will deal with an end user.
Any one have suggestions? I've tried the links on the fryreglet website, but they are geared to commercial contractors or architects.
Also, does anyone know how they are sold? By the ln foot, sections etc, rough cost?
Thanks,
Stuart
You can buy direct from Fry Reglet. Most of their trims are sold in 10' sections at around $1/ft. They will ship to you if you are not near them. Just call them up. The only difficult issue with them is that they accept NO returns. So, be sure you are buying what you want, and be sure to correctly calculate the amount you need.
-R.
I am looking for closet doors. Is there a style that works like a garage door? In my bathroom are the washer/dryer in the closet. Right now I have bi-folds. Take up too much room when open. Please respond to elymojo@yahoo.com. Thank you, Monte
We have used a product called EZ-Jamb which is a metal jamb that gets a sheetrock mud coat over the edge. This creates a clean frameless door. We are using a smooth door of birch veneer from a company called Algoma. Both the jamb and the doors were found through our local lumber company. We have some images of the jamb on our website. Soon we will have more on the doors and baseboards as they are installed. We are using a 1x8 for our base. We decided on this larger size because we wanted to locate our electrical outlets in the baseboard. Sometime I wish we had used something more minimalist like a 1x4 or none at all. Yes, we have to detail how the base meets the frameless door. I agonize over how this will turn out but we are working with our trim guy and contractor to pull something decent off. Again we will post photos as this gets finished.
blog site: www.daveandchristina.com
Trim Tex makes a number of plastic trim details that can be used for a flush door. We have used a ½”x ½” Z trim around interior doors. The jambs have to be installed first, then the drywall, then the Z trim, and then everything is taped. They look good but are tedious to finish out. If you go this route, you should use extra shim/attachment points for the jambs since you will not have the casing to provide extra stability. Here is a picture of an unfinished birch veneer door on pine a jamb.
John
I just got a quote for Ezy Jamb of 106.69 each, including 3 stainless steel hinges for 36" x 81" door opening and 1-3/4 door thickness. Is this a fair price? This product looks like a great solution. I have never heard of if before. Anyone with install experience please share...
I thought I would post a few pics of how we detailed our doors and windows. We used a solid fibercore birch door for the interior doors. These were from a company called Algoma that we bought through our local lumber company. The doors look beautiful now that they are stained but we have had some difficulties with them being warped when they arrived. Exterior doors and windows were trimmed with a thin 1x material. We chose a 1x8 for the base board. Square edged, no shoe mould. They beveled the 1x8 slightly as it meets the doors. I need to show so many more photos of these in detail in our blog and I've just forgotten to do this. We chose something called an EZ-Jamb for all of our interior door jambs to create a frameless look. Again we purchased these through our local lumber company. See more photos and updates as we progress ahead on our blog: www.daveandchristina.com





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