Construction Cost Question for Builders/Architects
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Hello-
I have been a reader of this forum and enjoy the discussions. I was hoping some of the resident builders and architects could chime in on current construction costs for both new construction and renovtions. I live in the E. Dallas area and am a big fan of mid century modern construction. For a new interpretation of mid century modern construction (Example - Similar to Jonathan Delcambre's Eichler House) - What is the $/sf number I should be considering for budgeting purposes? Also - Would taking our existing house down to the studs and/or pier and beam foundation save us any money on costs? I know there are a lot of variables to these numbers but any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks-
Craig
I am neither a builder or an architect, but we just moved in to our newly constructed modern home a week ago so the cost of the project is fresh on my mind.
Construction cost on our house ended up being about $130/SF but if I did it again, I could get it down to $120. Jonathan will probably speak up, but I think his house cost about 115/SF to put up. Dianne Cheatham says that her minimum is about $200/SF. What all this says to me is that $100/SF is an absolute minimum for new, modern constuction, but this assumes you have relatively stable soil on the site (foundations can range from $12/SF to $20/SF). It also assumes you 1) use Don Young windows (mill finish aluminum, sliders and single hung only), 2) use the top of the slab with sealer as the finish floor (need good foundation guy, but can avoid $2-$8/SF for finish floor), 3) do two baths with one story house or 2.5 with two story house, 4) largely $2/SF field tile for baths and backsplashes, 5) can use non masonry on exterior, 6) Ikea or Home Depot for light fixtures, 7) Ikea for cabinets -- can you build them yourself?, 8) bare bones landscaping, and 9) structure and details that builders and subs are already comfortable with. Deviations from all this will just start making the number creep upwards.
As for your existing house, taking it down to the studs and starting over will cost more. If the foundation is is good shape, you can probably save some money by working with that footprint -- especially since it is pier and beam. You might even be able to add to it and still save money over starting fresh.
I wonder what Jonathan D. and Jonathan O. think of my list.
Craig,
That is an extemely hard question to answer but since you framed it around a particular house I have driven by and seen pictures online before, I can make a guess.
I suspect a house similar to that in scope could be built for $125-$135 per foot. Now keep in mind size does matter. If you try to build a 2,400 square foot house 3 bed, 2.5 bath house it is going to be hard to build it for that price. If you build a bigger version of the same house 3 bed, 2.5 bath at 3,000 square feet, you will likely be at $120-$130 because the additional 600 square feet is inexpensive to build (say $50 per foot) because there is not an extra bathroom or kitchen - the most expensive parts of the house.
It also depends on where you build, who you build with and where they might have houses they are actively working on.
Send me a private message or post your e-mail and I can discuss in further detail. We might have some modern houses starting in East Dallas in the upcoming months and could efficiently start another.
Re: Construction Cost Question for Builders/Architects
I think the pier and beam foundation you have is a real plus for reuse. If the piers and beams are in good shape, you can maybe get by with new decking and you can then place new plumbing and walls anywhere you want. BUt I would first try to figure out how deep the piers go. The house we bought and tore down (776 SF) was on a pier and beam, but the piers barely went down two feet. The house had seen plenty of vertical movement over the years as the poil is really expansive. If you have that problem, then reusing the piers might involve deeper piers under the existing piers. But you might want a soils report to figure out how much potential movement you have to deal with.
One reason reusing existing framing is not so cost effective is that demolishion needs to be much more careful and the builder won't know what they might find and have to fix once they look under the sheetrock. My advice is to just tear out what you have and start over unless the existing foundation is in great shape and not too strangely shaped. Otherwise, you will save little and will be asking your designer to work around an existing footprint.
Re: Construction Cost Question for Builders/Architects





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