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Stick a fork in me

by Ed posted on 06-13-2006 11:07 last modified 12-21-2006 08:01 —

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Although I usually consider myself to be a pretty tough cookie, the past couple of months have been probably among the most trying of my life. Things blowing up on the homefront, personal front and especially the professional front. Oh, and there was also this little modern house project that I've been working on for the past couple of years that is/was stuck in a serious rut. At my darkest hour, considering how everything else had kind of imploded, I considered (for a few nanoseconds) selling off this surreally difficult project... but the moment passed. Indeed, insanity ultimately prevailed.

To enter into a long woe-is-me tale about my goings-on for the past couple of months would be the subject of another blog, so I won't get into it. But I will say that the dust is settling and that, besides a few dozen additional grey hairs, a quasi-nervous breakdown and some lost sleep, I'm pretty much okay now.

CURTAILED BY CURTAIN WALL PT. II

The early spring has turned into late spring. The flowers have bloomed, the leaves are on the trees, and another summer season in the Hamptons is in full swing. But here I am merely reading about it online (http://beach.curbed.com) rather than actually being there to enjoy it. I could have never imagined, even in my worst nightmare, that I would be sitting here with a half-finished house a year after groundbreaking.

As before, the main source of my angst has been the curtain wall contractor. And boy could I kick myself for allowing him to string me along for such a long time. I did everything in my power to try to coerce him into action. I tried to guilt him into acting by going on at length about the negative impact of prolonged exposure to the elements. When this didn't work, I mixed my pleas with a bit of Philly street thug ("After a while, yous gotta sh*t or get off da pot."). When this didn't work I threatened to can his lazy a$$ off the job. He finally wrote me an e-mail that he would have the entire job, including curtain wall, sliders, sealing and break metal completed within a month. But that is only if I would advance him the next milestone payment, even though he had not completed the previous milestone! He said that he needed the money because he was having "cash flow issues" and that Efco would not take any orders until they received some cash upfront. And given my utter lack of confidence in this clown and my realization that he was not ever going to finish, I refused; I would not throw good money after bad. So without cash he would not be able to reach the next milestone. But he would not receive any cash from me until he reached the next milestone. Classic standoff. After a couple of weeks of playing out this silly dance I finally canned him at the beginning of June without any idea of how this will be completed or will complete it. Admittedly, considering the work that has been done thus far, I would say that I have the upper hand with the curtain wall contractor- the project is about 35-40% complete, even though I paid less than 25% towards it. But considering the thousands he has cost me in terms of fees, interest and penalties (due to his prolonging my construction period by five months), he had better not even consider coming after me for the difference!

THE SEARCH GOES ON

Is there a curtain wall contractor in the house? After calling dozens upon dozens of storefront/glazing contractors in the NYC/Long Island area, I found only a few places that would even consider doing a residential project, let alone one that is partially completed, let along one that is located way out on the East End of Long Island. And then there are those who do residential projects... but they are strictly union shops, which means that they will take as long as they want to take and demand top dollar. This is definitely a situation where beggers cannot be choosers... but then again, I find it hard to believe that in one of the most populous metropolitan areas in the entire world, I cannot find a single contractor who would be willing to do this. Yes, I am getting nibbles here and there... but I desperately need someone to step up to the plate and say that they will not only get the job done, but that this would be their utmost priority. Hey, a boy can dream!

ARRGGH-DEX

One of the biggest challenges of working with a non-weathertight structure is how to carry on the momentum. The HVAC ducting/roughing is complete. The rough plumbing is complete. Most of the electrical wiring is complete. So what about the floors? My original intention from the get-go was to do a concrete slab for the first floor. We even anticipated the additional load by utilizing 2 x 12 floor joists. All of the door openings were adjusted to accommodate the thickness of the slab. But when push came to shove, we all had cold feet about doing this- could a wood deck support the dead weight of concrete. And when the concrete contractor is the biggest skeptic of them all, that's when you know that it may be time to consider Plan B. After doing a bit of searching online, I came across the various different poured flooring systems (like gypcrete), which are typically underlayments used on concrete slabs to seal and level high/low areas, and then finished with either tile or engineered hardwood flooring. However, I was interested in using this sort of system as the finished flooring. For me the biggest advantages of using a poured floor were that they were lightweight (only 1/4 - 1/2" thick), very quickly installed, and they are fully cured within 24 hours. Gypcrete was immediately ruled out because it was never intended to be a wearing surface. I looked into a couple of others but was told by a flooring contractor (who used lots of different products) that Ardex (http://www.ardex.com) was the best of the lot. After calling them for a local referral, I spoke with a flooring company (not a concrete contractor) who said that they could definitely use Ardex SD-T (using a multiple step metal lath, priming, pouring, sealing process) on a plywood deck. The only caveat was that the deck would have to be at least 1.5" thick, which would require putting on a second subfloor. This would help to minimize deflection and the development of cracks. However, he did caution me that spider-vein cracks are likely to appear around the T&G joints in the plywood. Eh, whatever- as long as it doesn't result in big chunks of the floor flaking out over time. It adds character, right? They eventually gave me a proposal to apply the Ardex system for $6 a square foot (not including the second plywood deck). I thought that was an okay price, if not a great price. I decided to get a second opinion from another flooring contractor. Boy did they sing a different tune! After getting the local Ardex field representative involved, they determined that they would not recommend putting Ardex on a wood deck and that it was more than likely that massive failures would occur due to the different expansion/contraction coefficients for wood vs. Ardex and deflection in the floor joists. I asked them if installing control joints over the plywood seams would help ease this issue, and they said that it could. Ultimately they agreed to give me a proposal, but they were not be able to guarantee the job. At first I thought their proposal had an extra digit in it! $16 per square foot! For that kind of money I could have put in a metal deck and poured a conventional slab and still had thousands left over. Needless to say, I will probably be utilizing Flooring Contractor #1 for this project, even though I am now a bit more paranoid about the potential for failure. I am heartened to see that many of the art and furniture galleries in SoHo (in 19th century cast iron buildings) appear to use these poured floors over hardwood flooring, and they look great, despite all of the commercial traffic.

Now wouldn't it have just been easier to go with hardwood flooring?? You try to do something a little different...

I'VE GOT THE POWER

After a couple of months of delays, the solar panels for my house were finally "allotted" to me. Apparently these are quite in demand! The 4509-watt system pretty much covers the entire surface area of the angled/shed roof section, so I am glad that I used regular 30-year asphalt shingles up there. But I have to admit that it looks really, really neat:

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The inverter has been activated, the power company, LIPA approved the electrical box and now I officially have power! In fact, the meter is spinning backwards like a top, even on overcast days. If there is one ray of light (pun intended) amidst all of this doom and gloom, this is it.

BELLO DOOR-O

As I had mentioned previously, I opted for the Clopay Avante door for the garage. It was a no-brainer. In fact, I couldn't imagine there being anything else there. However, I have to admit that I was a tad disappointed with it. It's a beautiful door for sure, but the "obscure" glazing looks a bit chintzy- it has the look of pebbled glass, as if it were covered by condensation. When ordering the "obscure" glass I had assumed that it would have more of a frosted appearance. Still, I can live with it.

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SOME QUESTIONS FOR THE ESTEEMED LM READERS

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  1. Assuming that the front door is aluminum with large glass inserts, what kind of glass would you use?

    a) Clear

    b) The same obscured/laminated glass as the adjoining obscured/laminated glazing.

    c) A different color (and if so, which color?)

  2. What color would you use for the architectural trim boards (at the roof line and in the middle between the first/second stories)?

    a) Grey

    b) Black

    c) Red

    d) Orange

    e) Blue

    f) Brown

    g) Other?

  3. What type of driveway would you choose?

    a) Asphalt.

    b) Concrete.

    c) Stamped concrete.

    d) Stone pavers.

    e) Other?

  4. Open-ended question. As noted previously, the seven frosted/laminated pieces of glazing in the roof curtain wall need to be replaced with clear glazing. If you had seven extra 4'x6' laminated/frosted 1" double paned low-e pieces of glazing, how would you re-use them? Wall panels? Furniture? Light box?
This page Copyright © LiveModern, Inc. and by the Contributing Author(s) above, if any. Ed. (2006, June 12). Stick a fork in me. Retrieved November 19, 2008, from LiveModern: Your Best Modern Home Web site: http://livemodern.com/Members/hejiranyc/blog/fork.
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Hang In There...

Posted by joedc at 06-13-2006 12:12

When I saw the title of you're entry, I was hopeful that you were in fact finally done with your project - sorry to read further and learn I was wrong. Stories like yours further fuel my indecision about what to do with my own house, especially when it looks like I may be switching jobs in the near future. That said, your place is going to be amazing, so hang in there and best of luck on all fronts!

My two cents (just a lawyer here), for what they are worth:

1(a), 2(a)(although the only color I probably wouldn't like is (e)), 3(b) & 4(wall panels/kitchen backsplash/shower wall).

And why you should always proofread...

Posted by joedc at 06-13-2006 12:15

I meant "your entry"!

Indecision

Posted by Ed at 06-13-2006 14:14

Thanks for your encouraging words. If you are on the fence about doing your own project, I am not sure if it would be a good idea to pull the trigger. I am not saying this is anywhere close to the level of commitment of having a baby, but in a way, you have to throw yourself into it with all of your conviction and be prepared to roll with the punches. I think it's one thing if you are building just another McRanch or McCape or McColonial... but if you want to do something really different, it will be a learning experience for you, as well as any others who are involved with its construction. Therein lies the rub- this sense of playing it by ear and being prepared to shift gears on a dime. I know that I am pretty much working without a budget because, so far, it has been nearly impossible to predict what things will cost.

Regarding the glass panes... they may not be suitable for showers/backsplashes because they are double-paned and an inch in thickness (bulky). Plus it's not like I can cut them down to size. They are tempered but definitely not appropriate for table tops. I was thinking perhaps I could hang them with barn door hardware to create closet doors. However, they are about eight inches too short... Still thinking...

keep on keepin on

Posted by paul schuster at 06-14-2006 12:59

henry,

so sorry to hear of all the stress. I can't belive it's been a year and the major stall in your project.

anyhow, I agree that those glass sections would work great as a screen or some sort of fencing? maybe to outline an outdoor area

I would be afraid that your door would be hard to find if it was the same as all the other glass. wich might be good to keep the solicitors at bay. I did like the suggestion of the colored film that could be changed when the mood strikes. could be fun. orange or lime/avacado green, maybe a pale blue...

can you do some quick and simple computer rendering to test out your trim colors. grey would be a no brainer, but I also like to see some color

check this blog for a link to free color visualiuation software.

paul

btw, we are about to jump into your boat. we have a goal of 6 months. ours is also a unique design, but we have most contractors/bids lined up and lots of trades folk here in austin get the modern aesthetic. and we have no curtain wall. again, sorry for your hassles. we all feel your pain and know you'll get through it.

forgot blog link paste

Posted by paul schuster at 06-14-2006 13:02

http://www.thismetalife.com/erwinhouse/archives/2006/05/the_color_is_co.html

Thanks Gladys...

Posted by Ed at 06-16-2006 07:17

The name's Ed, actually. Although, as a kid I had a hamster named Henry...

Thanks for the encouragement. I think I am on a bit of an upward trajectory since firing the curtain wall contractor. Actually yesterday I signed a deal with a new glazing contractor, a small family operation in Queens, who seems very enthused about the project. The son, who wants to grow out the business, said that he really liked the design and that he couldn't wait to have pictures of it on their website. So it appears that I have finally found someone who "gets it." And because of the unusual dimensions, and because it is for a residence, he said that he will custom-fabricate, from scratch, all of the doors and door hardware, rather than using off-the-shelf commercial products. And best of all, the pricing was very reasonable, in fact, moreso than the first contractor that I hired. This was a good find, I think. And I really liked their slogan: "If we can't do it... it can't be done!"

I'm glad that others are in agreement about having a bright-colored door- right now I am leaning towards orange, possibly red. But I do think it has to be one or the other- bright trim or bright door, but not both. The new glazing contractor suggested that I look into anodized aluminum for the trim, which would look really, really neat... but the fabrication and fitting would be a herculean effort. The material ain't cheap either. Decisions, decisions...

I didn't find the color visualization software on that blog... do you have a direct URL?

ED!

Posted by paul schuster at 06-16-2006 11:28

ed,

too funny about the name. you haven't posted in such a long time my brain had picked henry out of HEjiRNYc, and I'm lisdexic so I somehow transposed the RN.

anyhow, back to color visualization software

try this link

http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/html/selector.aspx

Perseverence pays!

Posted by Steven at 06-13-2006 12:29

For what its worth, it looks fantastic!

I'd go w/ grey boards and concrete or stamped driveway. I think it'll match the custom residence you have done.

I can't imagine why contractors wouldn't do your curtain wall job. I'd think they'd just charge extra if you are not in their local area. Your job should be big enough since many small storefronts have the same thing. What reasons are they giving you?

What about contracting a sunroom company. They deal w/ enclosing residential w/ metal frame and glazing. They may take it on.

garage door

Posted by Steven at 06-13-2006 12:31

oh, for the garage door if one of the sides is smooth you can just put on frosted glass window tint. I have used it alot and it holds up ok. Preferably on the inside but it'll hold up on the outside for awhile too. And its cheap.

Thanks...

Posted by Ed at 06-13-2006 14:22

So far it sounds like I should go with conservative grey all around. I was actually wondering whether I could get away with using door glass that "popped" visually- like orange or yellow or red. Something that basically says "this is the way inside." Everything else is so muted...

I think the exterior of the garage door is smooth. But honestly for what it is, the pebbled glass is starting to grow on me. I think the true test will be seeing how it looks at night with the lights on.

Hey, can I still get in my vote?

Posted by Mark Fojas at 06-23-2006 01:30

I think you're idea of adding some visual pop to the entrance is fantastic. I've done it myself in the past and have been very successful with it. Go for red since it will give the best contrast to your existing wood structure. I think you would quickly tire of orange after a year or so. Red for an entrance is classic!

DON'T GIVE UP OR GIVE IN AND YOU WILL WIN

Posted by Java Henderson at 06-13-2006 18:08

The house looks amazing.

I personally don't see nothing wrong with the garage door, it has a little different contrast here and there, but it looks good.

To answer your questions 1)A

2)I say other, what about a silver color

3)B

4)I like what someone said earlier, backsplash and bathroom tile

When it is over, you will say to yourself, it was all worth it. No pain, no gain.

floor

Posted by Splatgirl at 06-13-2006 19:03

With regard to the Ardex. What about using an uncoupling membrane like one would do when laying a tile floor? The Ditra product from Schluter comes to mind right away. Although it's intended for a tile overlayment, what you're doing is essentially the same thing and the bottom line is that it isolates what's on top of it from expansion/contraction in the subfloor which sounds like the major concern.

I like the idea of a colored door for exactly the reasons you said. If you're not comfortable with such a big commitment, what about getting plain frosted and then using a colored architectural film on it. That way you could change it out if you get tired of it. I vote for orange.

Personally, I hate stamped concrete and I hate the idea of a driveway being some kind of decorative showpiece. In my mind, it should call as little attention to itself as possible, particuarly when you've got such amazing architecture. I vote for a simple broomed concrete with saw cut control joints.

Hang in there man. You're welcome at Modern in MN anytime for cocktails and a morale boost. Living in something you've put your heart and soul into for so long is absolutely, 100% worth it and you WILL get there.

Ardex

Posted by Ed at 06-14-2006 08:36

I think an uncoupling membrane sounds like it would work if the Ardex was an underlayment for tile, etc. Or if the floor was much thicker and heavier. But supposedly one of the main benefits of the Ardex system is its ability to adhere very, very tightly (after priming, of course) to the substrate. This is supposed to inhibit the tendency for chunks of the floor to come out over time. Also, the metal lath is supposed to reinforce the stability of the floor. Anyway, the Ditra membrane costs $13 per square foot! What is this stuff made from? Titanium? Geez...

Thanks for the encouragement and the offer to chill in MN. I've never been to MN but it's a blue state, so it's probably alright. ;-) I would reciprocate... but I am still not convinced that this will be finished within my lifetime!

And how are things at your casa? I would imagine it's practically finished by now... I hope.

My $.02

Posted by Jeffrey Rous at 06-14-2006 10:49
I'll agree with everyone else that grey trim will work out the best (I'd choose a shade a bit darker than the first story color). For the door glass, I think I would opt for a bright color (orange or blue). As for the opacity, that would depend on privacy issues
what can visitors see from the front door that you might not want them to see?

For the driveway, I like the concrete best from the options you gave, but how about those pavers with the holes in them so water can drain through?

As for the laminated glass, can you use them in your landscaping? Either vertically or horizontally, they would make a great back-lit wall
perhaps defining an entry court?

Finally, where is Wieler in all this? I thought they were supposed to handle most of the organizing items like the curtain wall?

Cents and Sensibility

Posted by Ed at 06-16-2006 06:54

Thanks... in view of these replies, I should now seriously consider grey for the trim! Who'da thunk? As for the door... it will not be easily visible from the street due to a hedge, but my neighbors diagonally across the way would be able to see in theoretically. So my gut tells me that I should also keep this opaque and to also use a bright color. I am definitely not going to shy away from color in this house, so the front door should be no exception.

Can you show an example of the pavers with the holes in them? I would be afraid of weeds popping out of the holes!

The fencing is a great idea! And the 6' height is perfect for this. I just wonder if this is violating any sort of building codes or presents any hazards. After all, it just takes one errant baseball to turn it into a danger zone.

Wieler has not really participated in the project, other than to broker the design and to provide some leads for products and materials. Since on-site construction is such a local phenomenon, there is absolutely no way I could have considered a project manager that lives 500 miles away.

glass water feature

Posted by Steven at 06-19-2006 21:48

the extra frosted glass could be used in a waterwall either indoors or outdoors.

your light fixture

Posted by paul schuster at 06-20-2006 13:24

ED!

earlier today I stumbled across a lighting store that is going out of business. they even had the desks and staplers for sale.

so I'm finding lots of nice things to fill my light list and I saw your fixture that looked like a jug (to me). anyhow, it is really nice and much larger that I had figured. there was nothing the pic to give it scale.

why is it that when shopping for lighting online the stores love to use WHITE backgrounds for the image of light fixtures. I've seen too many pages where I struggle to find the fixture.

too bad I spent yesterday at ikea filling most of my light list. still, I might go back and splurge on a few items.

any luck with the color visualization software?

Eurofase Sidra

Posted by Ed at 06-21-2006 12:44

I have never seen these in the stores in these parts, so it sounds like you had quite a find. Although I am usually not into this style, I thought it would be a bit whimsical as well as practical for lighting a bedroom. And the bio major in me likes the fact that it looks like some kind of a primitive arthropod.

Ikea does have some neat stuff. The cable lighting systems are my favorite, although some of the chandelier-like contraptions with the poseable stalks are kinda fun. I did get a few lighting pieces from Ikea, but I made a conscious decision not to go too extreme with Ikea (or any other mfr) despite the tempting price point.

I haven't had time to muck around with the visualization software yet. Once I do I will try to post some of these doctored images.

blog therapy?

Posted by Lorina McCabe at 06-24-2006 07:48

Just found your blog and relate...especially with the knot in the belly/chaos post. I can't talk about/explain/get into the stress, worry, challenges this home has wrought with even closest friends and family. Is this blog a form of therapy for you? Are you happy with the ease of posting text and pictures? Thanks for the inspiration, your beautiful house is a testament to your determination. Lorina

A psychoanalyst in our midst?

Posted by Ed at 06-25-2006 07:34

Your assessment is scarily spot-on as far as the need for blogging is concerned. Initially I started the blog for my own record of the journey- simply for the sake of posterity. I was hoping that I could flip back through it eventually and just have a good laugh. Unfortunately it's not funny yet! ;-)

I totally relate to your comment about not being able to tell friends, relatives or co-workers about the experience. I have found that people pretty much do not want to hear about it or they get this glazed-over look. I am not sure if it's simply that the subject bores them to death. Or, as I have discovered in the past, there are a lot of "playah-haters" in the world, i.e., people who are jealous of other people's achievements, almost to the point of schadenfreude. So if I moaned or groaned about something, their pat answer would be, "please, at least you have a house in the Hamptons," etc., not exactly comforting or supportive words. As such, I pretty much do not discuss this project unless I am asked about it. And even then, it has to be a specific question. Otherwise, if asked a very general question like "how's the house coming along," I would just reply "it's coming along slowly," and just drop it. Blogging allows me to vent to an audience that is definitely more appreciative of the struggle and the learning process, as well as allowing me to indulge in a somewhat latent form of exhibitionism. lol

Permeable pavers

Posted by Jeffrey Rous at 06-28-2006 11:00

Sorry this took so long but I haven't been checking in.

Here is a link with information about porous or permeable pavers. I have seen them filled with either decomposed granite or grass (yes, you have to mow your driveway!)

www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/porous_concrete_pavers/

One more thing

Posted by Jeffrey Rous at 06-28-2006 11:01

... And if the glass is really laminated glass, it should take way more than a baseball to break it.